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ESSAY 



ON- 



*_-*' Razors, Razor H nn 



AUG >iq 1894 

AND ~ 



RAZOE HONIHG 



f IF&7& Illustrations,) 



-BY- 



KANSAS CITY, MO. 

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PRICE, 35 CE^TS. 



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ESSAY 



ON 



BARBERS' RAZORS 



RAZOR HONES, RAZOR STROPS 



■AND- 



EAZOE HONING. 



(Illustrated.) 



NAPOLEON LEBLANCf 



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Author and Publisher, ; 13 189S 

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Kansas City, Mo. ^^- ^ 

July 1895. 



A K. POTTS & CO., STEAM PRINTERS, 
PARKESBURG, PA. 






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Copyrighted November 17th, 1893, 
By Napoleon LeBlanc. 



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PREFACE. 



hi The aim of this work is to teach the various points appertaining to the honing 
of razors and how to overcome all the difficulties and trouble experienced by thou- 
sands of Barbers of limited and unlimited experience. As the secret of attaining 
the highest excellence in shaving depends on the right kind of razors, the hones 
best suited to each artist in order^o produce the very finest, keenest and smoothest 
edge, I find it necessary to precede the instructions on honing with instructions on 
raiors and hones; then conclude with information on strops, making this subject 
omplete and as plain as possible. 

The author believes that his thirty years experience, study aud observation 
mong the most skillful American and European Barbers has fitted him for the task 
f writing this essay, and he confidently hopes that it will be found beneficial to 
e profession and very helpful to beginners. With this purpose in view he sub- 
its same to the fraternity as a fore-runner of a work entitled "Treatise on Ton- 
orial Art " or " Barbers' Instructor," which the author intends to publish next 
fear. 

NAPOLEON LeBLANC. 



Introduction . 

The importance of this modest little pamphlet is far greater than our craft would 
imagine, and those who will read and study it will become well convinced of this 
fact, and it is believed that none will appreciate its benefits more than the Barber 
Supply Dealers and their traveling salesmen. A very large per cent, of Barbers are 
not connoisseurs of razors, hones and strops, nor have they succeeded in fully mas- 
tering the art ol honing razors; yet American Barbers are conceded to be the best 
shavers in the world. Can we attribute the whole credit to the Barbers ? I auswer 
no; and I claim that the Barbers' Supply Dealers of this country are great factors in 
the promotion of the attainment of that wonderful skill. Why? Because by their 
constant energy they have advanced their industry beyond the dream of Barbers' 
Supply Dealers of any other country. Larger variety of razors, hones and strops, 
and of higher grades, are carried in stock by our Barber Supply Dealers, and every 
Barber can find tools to suit his fancy and peculiarities ; hence better shaving is 
done with razors of extra fine quality, honed on just the kind and grade of hone 
suited to each artist, and stropped on the right kind of strops, for the same strops, 
hones or razors are not suited to every Barber. 

To prove the foregoing, let us look at Barbers who use a cheap grade of tools, 
or tools not suited to them. I assert that we will fiud very few artists among them. 

The author takes the liberty of illustrating with his own experience. During 
the first five years of his trade he experienced a great deal of trouble with his razors 
caused by the use of hones and razors not at all suited to his failings and the incom- 
petency of his instructor. One day he chanced to meet a Barber who used a German 
Water Hone, aud was well up in the art of honing. •Close observation of the new 
man's style of honing and a trial of the water hone convinced him that he honed too 
much and that his oil hones cut too fast and made a wire edge, while the water hones 
cut slowly aud made a smooth edge. The new man further taught him another les- 
son, viz: That medium, or little below medium, tempered razors were better adap- 
ted to those who are subject to overhoniug (further discussed in this work hereafter). 

While some paragraghs of this work may sound like advertisements, such is not 
the motive of the author. He has written this work with a view of giving instruc- 
tions aud information on razors, hones and strops of merit, for the beuefit'of young, 
Barbers, aud those living in small towns distant from Sup pi v Houses, having no op- 
portunity of investigating for themselves, aud are not familiar with all classes of 
goods. 

Instructions on Razors. 

What constitutes a good Barber's razor ? I venture to say that not many Bar- 
ber's are able to answer the foregoing question correctly. 

I will answer that it is a blade that is neither too soft nor too hard tempered ; is 
evenly and not extremely thin concaved (hollow ground). The soft razor will not 
hold an edge, while the hard razor will cut rough, cause the face to smart and burn 
after shaving. When unevenly concaved;, it is difficult to hone and obtain an even 
edge, and when too thin, it will spring on a heavy or wiry beard and will not shave 
it easily. 

TTT^No brand or make of American, English or German razors are free from the fore- 
going objections. There are three grades of good razors, viz : A little above medi- 
um, medium, and a little below medium tempered, but not many Barbers understand 
the theory of honing those three grades of razors to work successfully. 

How to Select a Razor, 

unii'i The following are indications of a hard razor : Blue steel, fine, smooth, 1- 
polish, brownish clouds appearing on polished blade (these clouds do not appear on 
newly polished razors), aud when full concaved, a very clear, sharp ring. 

The following denotes soft steel : Dim, pale color, coarse and not very bright 
polish. When full concaved, a fiat, dull ring. Of course the width of the blade 



and a thin concave will add to the ring. To select an evenly and not too thin con- 
caved razor, draw the side of the edge lightly over the thumb nail, noticing whether 
the edge springs evenlv and is the right thickness. 

Thick back on razors will make a shorter bevel and a stout edge which will not 
spring when shoved through a heavy or hard beard and will shave it easier and more 
rapidly. Hence, wide razors should have thicker backs than narrow ones. Narrow 
razors will bear a thinner concave than wide razors. Short blades are easier honed 
than long one, and are better for nervous barbers. 

It is advisable for Barbers with limited knowledge to tell their dealer what kind 
of razors they desire and let him make selections for them. The most convenient 
sizes are 4-8, 5-8 and 6-8 of an inch wide. Barbers' Supply Dealers, Cutlers and 
Grinders are the only reliable places to purchase razors, especially concave razors, 
as they, being in that special line, are good judges of first class concaving and carry 
that class of goods, while all other dealers' knowledge in razors is limited. Conse- 
quently an inferior class of razors is palmed off on them and they sell those inferior 
goods at twenty-five or thirty per cent, higher than the former. 

Hamburg grinding is considered the best. Razors bearing the name of old Eng- 
lish brands are no better than others. Those same firms make razors for all dealers. 
Prices of first-class full concaved razors run as follows: $1.25, $1.50 and $1.75. 
Many of the leading supply dealers and cutlers carry their special brands ot razors, 
which are hand-forged and of extra fine qualities. Prices $2.00, $2.50 and $3.00. 
All of the foregoing prices are for black rubber or horn handle . With fancy celluloid, 
fifty cents extra. With ivory handles, add one dollar extra. 

When ordering razors bear in mind that German razors are wider than English 
razors. For instance, a 5-8 German is equal to a 6-8 English. 

The following brands of razors have been fully tested and tried 
by the author, and he recommends them to his craft. 

The following brands are hard tempered (above medium) and are just the razors 
for those who can hone a fine smooth edge on any razor, but they are not suitable 
for Barbers who are subject to over-honing or not able to procuce a fine, smooth 
edge everytime they hone : 

"Blue Steel," I3.00; "Our Own," $1.50. Sold by August Kern, St. Louis, Mo. 

"Lucifer," $1.75. Sold by Theo. Koch, Chicago, and by his agents. 

"Congress," $2.00; "Turkish," $2.00. Sold by Kokeu Barber Supply Co., St. 
Louis, Mo., and Heckel Bros., Kansas City, Mo. 

The "Swedish," #1.50, "Ruby," $2.50. Sold by A. L. Undelaud, Omaha, Neb. 

"Peerless," "Snake." Sold by Geo. F. Creutzburg & Son, Philadelphia, Pa. 

"St. Bernard," $2.00, "Nancy Hanks 2.04," $1.50. Sold by Heckel Bros., Kan- 
sas City, Mo. 

The following brands are medium tempered razors and are suitable for those 
who are subject to over-honing and are unable to obtain a fine, smooth edge every 
time they hone. These razors will do good work and prove very satisfactory : 

"Improved Telephone," $1.75; "West Point," $1.25; "Phoenix," $1.50. Sold by 
Koken Barber Supplv Co., and Heckel Bros. 

"Royal," #1.75. " Sold by Hoffa & Co., Harrisburg, Pa. 

"Surprise," $150; "Perfection," $1.50. Sold by Smith Bros., Boston. 

(The peifection has a thick back, which makes, when honed, a short, stout bevel.) 

"Comfort," $1.50; "Edison," $1.25. Sold by Heckel Bros., Kansas City, Mo. ^ 

"Macena," $r.25; "Sly Fox," $2.00; "Swift," $2.00. Sold by August Kern Bar- 
ber Supply Co., St. Louis, Mo. 

"The Aluminum Steel Razor," $2.50. Sold by F. S. Stanfield & Co., Omaha, 
Neb. 

"Eagle." Sold by Geo. F. Creutzburg & Son, Philadelphia, Pa. 

The following cuts illustrate most all of the foregoing brands and will help the 
readers when they desire to select razors to suit their fancy. 




Medium tempered. 



A little below medium tempered. 




A little abo\e medium tempered. 



A little above medium tempered 




Medium tempered 



Medium tempered. 






1 1 1- ,$',$' 




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Medium tempered. 



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Medium tempered. 




Medium tempered. 



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THE: «5T BEttHARI) 



Hard tempered. 




Medium tempered. 



13 







A little above medium tempered. 



Medium tempered. 



15 

The Various Kinds of Razor Hones and their Mer- 
its. The Kind of Hones best suited to some 
Barbers. How to Select them. How to Use 
them and Where to Purchase them. 

The following are the finest and best grades of Belgium oil hones (yellow top 
and brown slate back): "Natural Growth Ligue," "La Fine," "Ail Petrified" hick- 
ory wood and "Old Rock" are all solid back, with crackled lines face. These hones 
are used with either lather, sweet, sperm or lard oil. Lather makes these hones work 
quick and set a little coarser edge than with oil. While there is but slight difference 
in the grades of these four brands of hones, yet some Barbers will have better suc- 
cess with certain ones of them . So it is advisable for them to try the different kinds 
(if they are so situated as to be able to give them a trial), and use both lather and 
oil, then they will soon be able to determine which suits them best. From seventy- 
five to one hundred full strokes on an eight or ten inch hone of this quality 
is required to set a good keen edge on full concaved razors, of medium temper, when 
ordinary dull. Soft razors may not require as many strokes, while hard razors may 
require a few more, and short hones will also necessitate more strokes in proportion 
to the length thereof. These hones vary in length from seven to ten inches and 
from two to three inches in width-, and in price from $1.25 to $6.00 according to size 
and thickness 

There are other grades of good Belgium hones, (yellow top glued on slate back), 
which are coarser grit and work quicker and require a third less strokes. Some 
Barbers prefer this grade, as it requires less time to sharpen a razor, but it is more 
difficult to obtain a very fine edge. However, it can be accomplished by taking 
several very short, light strokes to finish. These hones run from five to ten inches 
in length and in prices from $1.00 to $4.00. The best quality of the foregoing grades 
of hones can be had only at the Barbers' Supply Dealers, Cutlers and Grinders. The 
"Swaty" (a reddish brown artificial hone) has a course side for quick work and a fine 
side to finish on, from thirty to forty strokes on the coarse side and twenty to 
twenty-five strokes on the fine side. Use water, oil or lather. Length five and one- 
half and eight inches. Price $1.00 to $1 50. Sold by most all Barbers' Supply 
Dealers, Cutlers and Grinders. ±£very Barber cannot use this hone successfully. 

On all the following hones use water only: German water hones vary in color 
from blue-slate to bluish-green and greenish. Many Barbers have better success 
with water hones. Directions for using all water hones: Wipe clean, pour on a 
few drops of water, rub with a rub stone until a thick lather of the rubbing is formed. 
Apply the razor in the usual manner. On fine water hones seventy-five to one 
hundred and fifty strokes, adding a few drops of water to finish honing, make a fine 
edge. Length, seven to ten inches. Price 75 cents to $1.50. Sold by all Barbers' 
Supply Dealers, Cutlers and Grinders. •«*' 

Koch's "Brazilian" and "Thuriugia" water-hones, light, dark, green and blue- 
green. These hones vary in grit. Mr. Koch, the introducer, recommends them 
highly. Use like the German water hones. Length, seven to ten inches. Prices 
$1.25 to $2.00. Sold by Theo. A. Koch, Chicago, and by his agents. 

"The Eureka" water hone comes with two rubbers, one soft for quick work and 
a hard one for fip.e work to finish the honing. From seventy-five to one hundred and 
twenty-five strokes. Sold by Hofifa & Co., Harrisburg, Pa. Price $2.00. 

The "Japanese" water hones come in two colors, grayish drab and 3'ellowish- 
red. They are soft, fine grit and one of the author's favorite hones. Use in the 
same manner as the German water hone above referred to. Rub with any hone. 
Length, seven to ten inches. Prise $2.00 to I3.C0. Sold by Heckel Bros., Kansas 
City, Mo. and Hoffa & Co., Harrisburg, Pa. 



i_6 

The "Finest Grit" -water houe is bluish-gray American - stone, which requires 
from seventy-five to one hundred strokes. As its name indicates, it is a very fine 
hone, which the manufacturer claims that it is impossible to make a wire edge on 
razors honed upon it. Length, five and six inches. Price f i.oo to $1.50. Sold by 
barber supply dealers and the manufacturers, National Hone and Soap Co., Leaven - 
•enworth, Kansas. 

The Star hone is a new kind of bluish water hone on which a fine, 
smooth edge can always be obtained. It is excellent to finish honing. Any razor 
that has been over-honed or honed on a coarse hone it can readily be put in fine 
order by the use of this hone. Length, five to seven inches, Price $1.00 to $1.50 
Sold by Heckel Bros., Kansas City, Mo. 

Kern's "Eclipse" hone is a water hone of the finest texture and most uuiform 
grit, on which one cannot give a razor a wire edge by over honing. It will set a 
smooth edge on any razor. These hones are five by two and one-half inches and 
one inch thick. Price $2.00. Sold by August Kern, St. Louis, Mo. 

To protect a hone from scratches or dust, which fills the pores and causes the 
razor to cut rough, it should be set in a case or box and covered, or wrapped in a 
cloth, when put away. 

To select a hone, rub the end of your tongue on the hone to ascertain or feel 
whether it is coarse or fine grit, then draw the end of the thumb nail across the hone, 
bearing on it rather hard. If it makes an impression it is soft and about right, but, 
if, on the contrary, it does not make any impression, it is hard. Soft, fine hones are 
generally the best. 

Every Barber should possess an oil and a water hone for the following reasons, 
viz.: Razors cut better by changing hones now and then. Rubbing the face of one 
bone with another will keep them both perfectly even and make them adhere to 
the razor and do better work. And, as the operator does not always feel in the same 
boning mood, the same hone cannot always be used successfully. In those cases, a 
change of hones will prove beneficial. 

The Art of Honing Razors. 

Razor honing is an art which is mastered by but few Barbers, and still success 
in shaving depends almost entirely upon the condition of the edge of the razor. 
Strict observance of the following rules will enable any Barber to obtain the very 
keenest and finest edge: 

First. Wipe or wash the hone clean before using, then wash you hands well 
with soap and warm water to make the skin sensitive in order to feel the keenness 
of the fine edge. When you feel dull and not in a honing mood, wash your face in 
plenty of cold water to refresh yourself. This will make you feel like honing. 
Then lay your hone on a firm place.where it will not move while honing. (It is not 
a successful way to hold the hone in your hand or on your knee while honing, as 
the moving of the hone sets an uneven edge on the razor.) 

Second. If you use lather, rinse out the mug thoroughly to free it from hair 
or dust. Make a creamy lather and use thick to begin houiug. When nearly done 
add thin lather to finish, to set a fine edge. Thick lather makes the hone work 
quick and sets a coarse edge, while thin lather works slowly and sets a finer edge. 

Third. When usiug water hones, wet the face and rub with rub-stone (rubber) 
or with the face of another hone, which is better than a rubber (either oil or water 
hone) until a thick lather of the rubbing is formed. Then proceed with the honing 
in the same manner as when using lather or oil hone. When nearly done add a 
few drops of water to thin out the rubbing and finish honing. 

Fourth. To hone a full concave razor in the condition that good Barbers 
term dull: Wipe the razor clean and proceed as fellows: Lay the razor fiat on the 
hone (as shown in cut No. 1), draw steadily, evenly and slightly from hilt to point 



i7 



tlie full length of the hone (from A to B), turning the razor, then back the full 
length of the hone (from B to A) ?nd so on, holding the edge to the front as in- 
dicated by the arrow points, counting the strokes as you proceed until you have 




nearly reached the number specified with the description of the kind of hone you 
are using. Then wet your finger nail and draw the edge lightly across the nail. 
If it adheres to the nail smoothly and evenly take a half dozen short, light strokes, 
making the letter X with thin lather, (if you are using lather, but if you are using 
oil, add a few drops more and if you are using water hone, add water to finish). 
Then wet the end of your finger on your tongue until sensitive and draw over the 
edge, noticing whether it adheres evenly, smoothly and keenly. If not, draw a few 
more very short strokes and try again in the same manner. Care should betaken to 
avoid over honing. It is better to stop before it is quite done, than to over hone. 
Barbers who are unable to feel the keenness of the fine edge, will have better suc- 
cess by using water hones, but to them I would recommend the Eclipse, the Star, 
the Finest Grit and the Japanese hones. 

Fifth. When honing a very dull razor begin by rubbing four or five strokes, to 
and fro, the full length of the blade, from C to D, without turning the razor, (see cut 
No. 2), resting the thumb and fingers of the left hand on the end of the blade to 




steady the motions and hold the razor even and flat on the hone, bearing on accord- 
ing to thickness of the razor. 

(Thin razors will not stand much weight or bearing on, as they are apt to spring 



i8 

and make too wide a bevel), then turn over and repeat the same on each side twenty,, 
thirty or fifty times, until honed down to a good foundation for a fine edge. Then 
proceed in the usual manner, always watching the bevel, keeping it even on both 
sides. An uneven or one-sided bevel will cause a razor to cut badly (some Barbers- 
term it tired.) 

When you discover that you hone more on the point or on one side, reverse 
your way of honing to even it. Few strokes, as before stated (to and fro) to begin 
honing any razor, will help to keep the edge straight and to hone quickly. 

Sixth. Rubbing to and fro, as shown in cut No. 2, or reversing the stroke from 
point to hilt, as indicated in cut No. 3, pushing it from E to G and from F to G r 




or drawing the blade on a square with the hone, as shown in cut 4, (not bias), will 
take off the rough edge. 




Then finish honing in the usual way, taking a few short, light strokes in the 
shape of a figure eight or letter X. 

Seventh. Barbers subject to overhoning (those whose razors always cut rough) 
should try hones of fine grit, and change from oil, leather or water hones until they 
have secured a hone with which they can overcome their trouble. To these I recom- 
mend the Japanese, the Finest Grit, Eclipse or Star Hones. Every Barber cannot 
use every hone successfully, and what is considered a poor hone by some will some- 
times just suit others — and the same with razors. All depends on the way of 
honing. 

Eighth. Any one who has difficulty in honing his razor smooth should use 
medium, or a little below medium, tempered razors. For this reason, when over- 
honed or rough, a good stropping will take off the rough edge; but on the contrary 
a hard razor cannot be stropped smooth. The strop has not enough adhering power 
on hard steel. Of course razors tempered a little above medium are more lasting, 
and are the best razors for those who understand bow to hone them, i. e , a fine, 
smooth edge. 

Ninth. Persons with a nervous or unsteady hand have better success in honing 
wide razors (7-8 or I inch blade), as the bearings on the hone are more steady and 



19 
even. Resting the fingers of the left hand on the blade, as shown in cut 2, will 
steady the motion of the razor on the hone and help in obtaiuiug an even edge. 

Tenth. Rubbing the faces of the two hones together will keep them even and 
make them adhere more keenly. Any hones, especially the oil hones, become too 
glossy (steel bound) when used a half dozen or more times without rubbing. Short 
rubbers are not so good as large hones. The former are apt to make the face of the 
hone uneven, while the latter will always keep it perfectly even. Long hones (eight 
or ten inches) are better than short ones to keep an even bevel on the razor, and 
can be used more successfully in every way. Hones of less than five inches will cause 
much trouble with the razor. 

A Cure for "Tired" Razors. 

When a razor is tired (as some Barbers term it), or refuses to work, the trouble 
is either with you, with your hone, or with your strop, and not with the razor. Now 
to prove this assertion, I give the following cures : Try another hone ; if you have 
been using a water hone, change to an oil hone and vice versa, or let another Bar- 
ber hone it once or twice, or change your way of honing. If the edge is uneven, 
straighten it b} T drawing it across the hone a few times and hone down again to a 
new edge. Or, if worn to a thick, blunt or uneven edge, take it to a razor grinder 
and have a very light twenty-five cent grinding put on, just enough to straighten 
the edge, and you will find that it will cut allright. (An occasional twenty-five cent 
grinding, a light touching up, will help in keeping razors in good working 
order). The idea is to change the edge and the bevel which has been honed one way 
too many times, hence become one-sided, or uneven, or rough, or too smooth or 
rounded. Or it may be that your strops are filled with dust or grit and destroy the 
edge which you have produced by honing, or the strops may be too gloosy and have 
no effect on the razor. Some Barbers go on the theory that they must hone their 
razors a little rough in order to make the edge last, and they pull a few customers 
until the wire edge is worn off, then they think that they are prepared to do good 
work and call themselves workmen. Good Barbers hone their razors to cut smooth 
from the start. 

Every barber should possess from six to twelve razors. This will give them a 
"reserve" to fall back on in time of rush or busy days, but they should only keep 
two or three razors in constant use, as, when using too many razors on the same 
day, one will lose track of those needing honing, or hone before his razors are dull 
and get them out of working order by being overhoned. When those two or three 
razors become out of working order (refuses to work or are "tired") lay them aside 
and use another two or three, or see instruction on "tired" razors. 

Instructions on Razor Strops. How to Prepare 
them and How to Use them. 

Linen canvas makes one of the best first strops when properly prepared and well 
broken in. Barbers' Supply Dealers have them in both states, natural and partly 
broken in (the face ground). If in rough state, smooth (grind) on a grind-stone, 
beat the dust out ; then fill with cotton seed oil, let dry a few days. When the oil 
begins to get gummy tack it down tight on a smooth board (face up), use a heavy 
quart bottle to rub it down smooth, rubbing to and fro with the bottom at first, and 
finish with the side of the bottle, bearing on it with both hands. When smooth rub 
with lead pipe (or rub-stick for that purpose) until black. Then apply the bottle 
again until nearly smooth enough to use. Then rub in some shaving soap or thick 
lather to finish smoothing it. 

Cotton duck or canvas will also make good strops (but damp weather makes it 
stiff.) Prepare in same manner as linen canvas. There are several kinds of canvas 
or cloth strops which are about as good as the foregoing. 

Curtin's"Hose and Canvas Strop, prepared and finished (ready for use) by their 



20 

improved process, makes a perfect strop. Sold only by the Curtin Strop M'f'g. Co., 
Lewisburg, Ohio. 

The shark hide strop is very porous and has great adhering power ; hence it 
makes one of the best strops in the world, especially adapted for Barbers who over- 
hone, as the rough edge can be stropped off, and a good edge can also be stropped 
on a dull razor by rubbing lead on this strop and give a good stropping. Sold by 
all leading Supply Dealers. 

Russian leather and horse-hide are the Barbers' old favorite strops. However, 
there are many new kinds of good leather strops, as follows : Kangaroo, porpoise, 
moose hide and wild boar hide are very highly recommended, and are sold by all 
Supply Dealers. To break in leather strops try the following course : If not already 
done, grind the grain side to smooth it down, soak in urine a couple of days, draw 
out, let dry a day, stretch on a board, fill with shaving soap, rub with bottle in same 
manner as canvas, apply lead and rub until ready to use. When using apply lather 
— it will help finishing to smooth it down. 

It sometimes occurs that a good edge is ruined by stropping on strops filled 
with dust, or short hair, rubbed on by the razor when the operator is careless in 
wiping the lather off the razor before stropping. Always wipe the strop with the 
palm of the hand before using. Once in a week or ten days scrape the strops lightly 
with the back of the shears and rub on lead pipe or rub-stick, and rub the hand over 
it before stropping. Always hold the strops tight when stropping. If allowed to 
sag down it will round ofl the edge of the razor, and be not afraid to use them 
freely, especially when the razor is rough, but use lightly when honed on the Finest 
Grit, Star or Eclipse Hones. 

Soft cedar or pine wood, rubbed with lead, is good to strop off a rough edge or 
to draw the edge lightly across it when over-honed. Then give a few light, short 
strokes on the hone, strop lightly on the stick and give a good stropping on the 
canvas and leather strops. 

With the aid of all the foregoing instructions and strict observance of the same, 
the most difficult and dreaded part of the Tonsorial art will be made the easiest. 
The operator will shave with ease and speed, increase his trade and receipts. 

Bear in mind that 

Cheap Tools is Misplaced Economy. 

Always buy the best and highest grade of razors, hcnes and strops. Then you 
will be prepared to do the best work. You may argue that some Barbers have good 
enough success with cheap tools, but you fail to realize that such Barbers, with the 
use of better tools, would become artists and experts. Considering the time our 
tools last, the saving between fair and extra good tools is such a bagatelle that it is 
hardly worth thinking about. 

When you contemplate purchasing razors, hones or strops, if you have not 
money enough to buy the best, put oft your purchase until you have the necessary 
amount. In the meantime, economize in your luxurious expenses and, if neces- 
sary, deny yourself of some of the necessaries of life. You can better afford to do 
that than to go without good tools, inasmuch as you will gain the difference in a 
short time by drawing extra custom, by being more rapid, etc. 

N. B — Every reader will find it to his interest to look over the cards of the 
firms mentioned in the back part of this pamphlet. The author feels that they are 
worthy of his highest recommendation. 



21 



HECKEL BROS., 

The Largest Barber Supply and Fine Cutlery House in the U. S. 

608 Main St., KANSAS CITY, MO. 

Inventors of the Greatest Barber Shears in the World. 

THE HECKEL SHEAR. 

{Patent Applied For) 




No. 1 represents the Winged Bolt so that a barber can adjust the shear to his desire without the 
use of any tool. No. 2 represents the bolt You will notice that same is flat on two isdes, the 
finger blade of the Shear have an oblong hole ; this bolt fits in same and thereby makes it impossi- 
ble to loosen or tighten itself while in use. No. 3 represents the spring which also has an oblong 
hole which holds it in place. The spring gives the blades a yielding contact, so that the shear is 
just as tight when open as when closed. As the shear comes to a close the spring cives and in 
consequence it avoids the blades from cutting each other at the point, You can readily see that 
this shear is the most simply constructed shear on the market, and no matter how many times the 
shear has been ground the tension will remain the same. 

Sole Proprietors of the following favorite brands of fine razors : St. Ber- 
nard, Congress, Nancy Hanks, Comfort and Edison. Importers of the 
Fine Japanese Hones, and proprietors of the Wonderful Star Hone. 
Manufacturers of the best Rose Cream, Quinine Hair Tonic, 
and Witch Hazel Cologne. Agents for the World Re- 
nowned Congres, Crescent and Star Barber 
Chairs, and dealers in all kinds of 
Barber Furniture. 



When you need anything in our line it will pay you to write 
goods, lowest prices and large business. 



to us. Our motto : The best 



HECKEL BROS., 
608 Main St., KANSAS CITY, MO. 



22 



National Hone A Soap 




MANUFACTURERS OF 



Mall j!oap and "Finest Grit" Water (tones, 

106 and 108 DELAWARE STREET, 

LEAVENWORTH, KANSAS. 

We manufacture the only Razor Hone produced in the United States. 

We make the only Hone produced ON EARTH which does not make a wire edge. 

It removes a wire edge made by all other Hones. 

It contains the "Finest Grit" ever found in stone. 

It makes an edge that requires the least amount of stropping after honing. A 
strip of the softest leather possible, or a peice of fine silk being all that is needed. 

Is purely vegetable, without a trace of acid or alkali. It makes a most luxurious 
shampoo. Will cure such skin troubles as dandruff, eczema and saltrheum. 

If your supply dealer does not have these goods, send $1.00 (the price of our hone 
5x2^x^j, with rubber) and 25c for sample box of our soap, which we will send pre- 
paid by mail. 

National Hone & Soap Co., 

LEAVENWORTH, KAN. 



23 










t 



UpfiY 



n 



Barbers' Chairs aiid Fine Fixture 

Our Specialty. Sole Patentees and Manufacturers of 



The Star No. 2 Elevating Chair. 




(Patented. 



Iiatest 
Improved 
f^eelining, 
Revolving 

and 
Elevating 

Chairs. 



The latter are adjustable in height by a simple handle at the back of the 
chair and need not be revolved to accomplish this adjustment. 

Our chairs exhibit a remarkable degree of mechanical excellence. If you 
have not already received our catalogue and hair fashion plate, send for them. 

FACTORY, 2518 TO 2524 OHIO AVENUE, 

OFFICE AND SALESROOMS, 909 MARKET STREET. 

ST. LOUIS, MO. 




Archer's Patent Barber Chair, No. 14. 



Archer's Patent Barber Chair, No. 3. 



Three of the Finest Barber Chairs on earth for the money. We have 
others at less price, and still more expensive. They are all well made,, 
from the best stock, and it will pay you to write for Illustrated Cata- 
logue, giving full description and prices. Piano finish. 




Archer's Patent Barber Chair, No. 13. 



Archer Manufacturing Co., 

ROCHESTER, N ' Y. 



25 

ESTABLISHED, 1852. 



Geo. F. Creutzburg & Son, 



MAKERS OF THE CELEBRATED 



Eagle, Peerless and 
Snake Razors. 



OUR GRINDING DEPARTMENT. 

The Largest in the United States. 

As this department was the foundation on which we started, now some forty 
years past, that reputation and fame which is as wide-spread as our country is ex- 
tensive, we may state that we were the first whose work was equaled nowhere else 
in the world excepting one place only, and that Hamburg ; in fact it was there 
where for many years the founder of our establishment gained that skill and expe- 
rience which, when exercised in this country with such improvements as were 
found to be an advantage, was heralded as a need supplied which had been long 
felt. Our constant and special endeavor has been, is and shall be, to improve and 
to supply first-class work at as low a cost as the expense of the finest workman- 
ship would allow, and upon the latter our most energetic efforts will be concen- 
trated. 



119 NORTH SIXTH STREET, 
PHILADELPHIA. 



fi@~SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



26 

The' Well-Earned Reputation Gained 
The Aug. Kern Barber Supply Co. 

Makes it unnecesary for us to say much here, concerning them ; we merely call the attention of 

our readers to the following: 

iKiiEirasr's zbiljTTE steel eazoh, 

Illustrated below, requires no special description, for the experience of thousands using it is that it 
is justly entitled to being "one of the best razors known." Price, any size, black handle, $3.00; 
ivory handle, $3.50. 




Kern's Emery Clipper Grinder, 

Of which the accompanying cut gives but a vague illus- 
tration, is an indispensable aid to barbers. It combines 
durability, simplicity and economy, and is highly ap- 
preciated by all barbers who use it. PRICE, $3.00. 
Full particulars furnished on application. 




Space does not permit us to describe 
Kern's Eclipse Hone, which sell at $2 ; 
we will merely say that this amount can- 
not be better invested by any barber, as 
all will be convinced who give it a trial 

Notwithstanding the height of perfec- 
tion and excellence of 

Kern's Eclipse Chairs 

they can be bought as low as $28 to $65, 
according to elegance of finish. 

Catalogues giving full particulars on 
all first-class barber supplies will be 
mailed on application, by 



THE AUG. KERN BARBER SUPPLY CO., 

No. 114 North Broadway, ST. LOUIS, MO. 



27 



A. L UNDELAND, mH^ 



SOLE AGENT FOR THE U. S. OF THE 



famous Scuedish H^ z o p » 



WITH COMMON SENSE HANDLE. 




This brand of Razors is manufactured especially to my order, from the finest quality Swedish 
Razor Steel, which at present is the best known. The handle is made to fit the hand, so as to pre 
vent the razor from slipping while in use, and it has been pronounced by experts the finest thing 
of its kind ever placed on the market. The quality of these razors is guaranteed to be absolutely 
first-class, medium tempered, and the grinding is perfect. Price each, $1.50. Will be sent by in- 
sured mail, to any part in the U. S. upon receipt of $1.55. 




To barbers who want a High Grade Razor, I will recommend the Ruby Razor. It is li'ttle 
above medium tempered and extra full hollow ground. It is equal to the finest blue steel razor 
ever placed on the market. Price, $2.50. Will be sent by mail upon receipt of price. Barbers 
who appreciate first class work in grinding send a trial order to 



A. L UNDELAND, Omaha, Neb. 



28 



<>< HOFFA & CO., tx> 

Importers, Manufacturers and Dealers in 

BARBER'S CHAIRS, 

BARBER'S FURNITURE, 

BARBER'S SUPPLIES. 

Sole Importers of the Famous 




"KOYAL" EAZOK 

Which is positively the finest ever put on the market. We have hun- 
dreds of testimonials, from all parts of the U. 3., speaking loud praises 
of its superior merits. The price asked for it is not higher than is asked 
by other dealers for inferior razors. We will send them prepaid to any 
part of the U. S. on receipt of the following prices: Per single razor, 
$1.75; one-fourth dozen, $5.00; one-half dozen, $9.50; one dozen, $18. 
It will pay you to send for our catalogue. 



ZE3IO^^.iL- cfc CO., 

FIFTH and MARKET STREET, HARRISBURG, PA. 



29 



Razor Honing Made Easy 




Keep your razors sharp and good business is sure to follow. 

Buy a Worden Razor Honing Machine 

And you will have no more trouble. All kinds of razors honed per- 
fectly, rapidly and easily, and the results are always certain. Send for 
catalogue and full information. Trial machines shipped on receipt of 
price, if not satisfactory money will be refunded. 

The Worden Machine Co., 

216 Havemeyer Building, NEW YORK. 



3° 



Curtin's Razor Strop MT'g Co., 

LEWISBURG, OHIO. 

Manufacturers of All Kinds of Canvas & Hose Strops. 

Our improved process enables us to offer a -superior strop, ready for use. We give a written 
guarantee with each strop. Sent by mail on receipts of 65 cents. Write for circulars and testi- 
monials. 

' G. N. W. WILSON & CO., 

Manufacturers, Importers, Wholesale and Retail Dealers in 

Bq-ffbetfs' Supplies S^ Fiqe Cutleries. 

SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF THE 

"Shark Hide" Razor Strop. 

A Razor Strop worth reading about. Saves time and labor. Once used you will use no other. 




Wilson's world-renowned "SHARK HIDE" combination razor strop. One trial will convim 
the user of its superiority over all other makes and will save three to five times the ordinary honin;, 
" BEWARE OF IMITATION ;" none genuine without G, N, W, Wilson's name and trade-marl 
*' SHARK HIDE," Registered, stamped on each strop. PRICE, $2.50. 

Mailed upon receipt of price (f 2 50 each) from leading Barber Supply Dealers, or the Manufac- " 
turers direct. 

208 Octavia St., SAN FRANCISCO., CAL. 



^lEEir ^t^ti^ts.'" 




Awarded Medal and Two Diplomas at World's Fair. 

McNeal's Hair Tonic 



Is endorsed and prescribed by the Medical Profession. 

Fie st and Only Hair Grower 

That ever received an award at any International Exposition. Grows hair, removes 
dandruff, cures humors and prevents the hair falling or combing out. Barbers, 
write for particulars or send $3.50 for one half dozen and. circulars with name 
printed on them. Address, 

THE D. W. McNEAL CO., 

51! 67th Street, Station O, CHICAGO, ILL. 

Florentine Camphor Cream, 

I ALWAYS FULL STRENGTH. 

ALWAYS READY FOR USE. 

ALWAYS HEALTHFUL. 

Much depends upon these conditions. The superiority of Florentine Camphor Cream is not 
limited to ODOR alone, tests made under the widest possible range of climatic influence have- 
shown that no other preparation of liquid camphor is so permanent, so trustworthy. The perfect 
incorporation of Camphor with Glycerine, gives this preparation a wider scope of usefulness than 
any other, for it is the purest and most effective Skiu Purifier and Beautitier on the market. It 
is so because it strikes at the root of all Complexional Disfigurations, viz: The clogged and irri- 
tated, inflamed or sluggish "pores." It is the most soothing, cooling and healing application for 
summer rashes or bites and stings of insects, chafing, undue perspiration, blackheads, pimples, tan,, 
freckles, sunburn or anything in this order which is removed by an outward application. 

Ask the Barber of any city, town or village about it, they all use it and keep it for sale. Writi ■ 
for prices. Prepared only by the 

MOHAWK VALLEY CHEMICAL CO., 

UTICA, N. Y. 



32 

The Aluminum Steel Razor. 

WITH PURE ALUMINUM HANDLE. 

We Invite the Attention of the Trade 

The material in this instrument is the perfected result of experiments begun a 
few years since, by eminent scientists and metallurgists to determine the advantages 
of an alloy of steel and aluminum. The tests proved the alloy to be superior to 
pure steel in every respect. It is impossible to manufacture unalloyed steel and 
have it free from blow holes. By the addition of aluminum that serious defect in 
steel has been entirely eliminated, the aluminum causing the destruction of carbonic 
oxide or dioxide, and converting the combined carbon into graphite carbon, thus 
producing a metal very uniform in texture and hardness. The presence of alumi- 
num in steel admits of a temper at a lower degree than pure steel, and insures 
evenness and positively prevents burning, the cause of crumbling along the edge. 

The phenomenal disability of a razor to operate at intervals is effectually oblit- 
erated in ours. Whether this condition is due to changes in the atmosphere or to 
that insidious force, electricity, is as yet unexplained. However, we forestall the 
above named forces in the fact that aluminum is not affected by atmospheric 
ohanges, and being non-magnetic, electrical forces can never alter its molecular 
structure. 

The blades in these razors are superior to the best Jessops' English steel. They 
are tempered at a lower degree than ordinary steel and are entirely uniform. 

Those who are using these razors to-day, without exception, say that it is the 
easiest honed razor and that it preserves its keenness longer than any they have 
ever handled. A few strops easily brings up a fine edge. The handle is made of 
pure aluminum, is very light and very closely resembles silver, it sustains a high 
polish and is not tarnished by ordinary acids or impurities in the atmosphere. It 
will not crack at the rivet holes, thus being superior to rubber, bone, etc. As this 
handle is purely non-magnetic, it is a safeguard against the blade becoming in the 
slightest degree magnetized and attracting the millions of small imperceptible 
particles of metal floating in the atmosphere, and which without a doubt are 
often the hidden cause of dullness in your razor. The entire instrument is a hand- 
some article. One of our customers writes that he would not be without them for 
their weight in gold ; you will find this razor will increase your patronage, it will 
save time and give entire satisfaction. Every razor is carefully tested before ship- 
ment. These razors can only be obtained from us, as it is our invention and we are 
the sole dealers. Mailed to any address in the United States or Canada. 

PRICE, $2.50 EACH. 

F. S. ST&]^FIELiD <% CO., 

Reliable Barber Supply House, 



33 



THE ALUMINUM STEEL RAZOR. 

With Pare Aluminum Handle. F. S. Staufield & Co.'s New Razor. 



CD 
> 

o 

5 



m 



(L> 



- >o&'t 



I i , ( ill ' .!•/■■ 




\r 



H 







n 

P 

EL 



That is Simply Perfect. 
r\ That is Kept Sharp by One-third Less Honing. 

Y\ O "7 f| I -1 That is Not Affected by the Atmosphere. 
I \\£^ \J I That is Far Superior to Ordinary Steel. 

That is Tempered at a Lesser Degree of Heat. 

No Barber Should be Without One. No More Trouble with "Tired' 7 
Razors. By Mail to any Address, price $2.50. 



A Handle 



That Cannot Break or Warp. 

That Your Blade Will Not Strike. 

That Has the Appearance of Solid Silver. 

That Balances Perfectly. 

That Will Not Corrode. 

That Will Not Tarnish. 

That is as Light as Wood. 



F. S. Stqufield ^ Co., Sole Deqlei<s, 



1518 DODGE STREET, OMAHA, NEB: 



34 



:fi5z:e3S 



T P ATBl^ T. 



Perfection 





ver 



Fir)isf)ecL 

DIAMOND M{. 

Absolutely no tendency to 
adhere to the moist skin 



50 Per Cent Lighter than 

Any Other Design. 

Weight only 

4 OUNCES. 

Simplest in Construction. 

Neatest in Design. 
Lightest in Weight. 

Easiest Working. 
Keenest Cutting. 

Finest Finished. 

Most Dural 



UNEQUALLED, UNAPPROACHED. 

No effort is required to keep these Clippers in perfect order. No wrench nor screw driver re- 
quired, only a thumb nut to be removed to take them apart which is done in three to five seconds. 
Tne spring is removed and replaced in the same time and is practically indestructible, very 
elastic and adjustable. These Clippers cannot be praised too highly hence we take pleasure in 
recommending them. Price of Nos. and 1, $3 00. 

SMITH BROS,, Sole Agents, Boston, Mass, 

P. S. They will have our latest style attachable combs. Cutting two additional thicknesses. 
Price, 50 cents each. 



35 



W. F. DALY & CO., 

Barbers' Supplies, Utica, N. Y. 



'HONEST ABE." 

Where can you find a better name. Various incidents in the life of the great 
liberator, Abraham Lincoln, have shown him to have a keen wit, a heart as true as 
steel, and a temper when aroused that surprised the natives. There is a similarity 
between our "Honest Abe" Razor, and its illustrious namesake, like his wit, our 
razor is very keen, like his heart, our razor's edge is true as true can be, like 
"Abe" when mad, our razor's temper is second to none. It only needs one trial to 
convince a man that the "Honest Abe" is the only razor to use. 

Our Cordovan Razor Strop 

Is made of the best selected leather and finished on a sand wheel leaving an irregu- 
lar face. When the blade is passed over the strop the ridges sharpen the edges of 
the microscopical teeth to a high degree and the smooth parts of the strop equalize 
these edges so as to render the cutting edge of the blade extremely keen, and to 
give the edge a finish that cannot be obtained by means of a strop having an entire 
smooth face. The leather of this strop is Horse Hide, one side being sand wheeled 
which has the greatest cutting qualities on account of the leather being open, 
porous and elastic by nature, producing all desired effects without the aid of artifi- 
cial means, such as emery, paste, etc., that gums up and makes a strop undesira- 
ble. The finishing side of the strop is of the finest, which contains all of the desir- 
able smoothing qualities for the edge of a razor. 

Each strop is fully warranted to give the best of satisfaction and any one not per- 
fectly satisfied with his investment can return it. 



W. F. DALY & CO 

Barbers' Supplies, Utica, N. Y 



r 



36 



The National Barber 



■AND- 



Druggists' Gazette 




A LITTLE SHAVER. 



Is valuable for the reading matter it con- 
tains, invaluable as an advertising me- 
dium and an all-around up-to-date jour- 
nal. No barber nor druggist should be 
without it. 

Only $1 a Year?. 

Sample copies sent on receipt of 10 cents 
in pOvStage stamps. Publication Office, 



920 ttlalnut Street, 



^13. 



■A__ 



^=>^. 



Note i. — "No business man who does not let the public know what he has for 
sale can expect to prosper." — P. T. Barnum. 

Note 2. — "The National Barber and Druggists' Gazette is credited with 
a higher circulation rating than any other paper devoted to barbers published in 
America, and no paper devoted to druggists is credited with a higher circulation. 
These facts emphasize the importance of this paper to an advertiser." — American 
Newspaper Director}', 1895. 



37 



CONDENSED SYSTEM . 



OF 



arbers' Account Book 

Copyrighted. 

Enables Barbers, with or without knowledge of book-keep- 
£, to easily keep a correct account of all their business 
:h very little work. 

Price, book for four chair shop and one porter. 6 months, .75 

" •" ' " 1 \ear, $1.00 

Price, book for eight chair shop and two porters, 6 mouths, $1.00 

'' " " " 1 year, |i-50 



oil nuies 01 



- a 




s Next." 




Copyrighted by Napoleon LeBlanc 

[Id ornament the walls of all well conducted shops. 
*e complete and settle all disputes regarding " turns." 
:o all parts of the United States on receipt of ten 
.ddress all orders to 

POLEON LeBLANC, 

, AMERICAN BANK BUILDING, 



KANSAS CITY, MO. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



001 231 398 6 



i- 

e- 

j 
nr- 

be 



/. 



cents 
nee, 



E>^. 






he has for 



credited with 
published in 

ir circulation. 

jr." — American 



